Part 2 - The Importance of Getting a Full Vehicle History
Now
we start looking at each individual step involved in making a successful auction purchase. We will explain the
importance of being well prepared for bidding on the vehicles you are interested in. How do you secure the true
history of the vehicle? What about the title, is it really clean? These and many related "must-know-answer-to"
questions will be thoroughly addressed today including how to carefully inspect an auction
vehicle.
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Precautions You Should Take
Before A Car Auction
Here
are some basic precautions you need to take before participating in a car auction. Bring copies of the Kelley
Blue Book and the NADA guide to check auto prices. Check to see if all the car's Vehicle Identification Numbers
(VINs) match up. Take care to examine the car itself for signs of
past damage.
In
general with government pre-owned vehicles the risk for you as a purchaser is less than normal. As I am sure
anyone can appreciate that the US Government does not want to be accused for selling vehicles without full
disclosure. But you need to cover off everything regardless. Also, many vehicles are repossessed or seized. In
these cases you must be sure the title history is clean and that the vehicle has not been rebuilt in any way.
The vehicle history report will give you peace of mind. Most auctions provide a complimentary vehicle history
report for all their vehicles. You should request one at the vehicle inspection day which is usually held 2 days
prior to auction day. If you don't plan to attend the inspection day (you should if you can) then give the
auction house a call and confirm they provide such information on auction day. If they don't then you should
consider purchasing access to this information prior to auction day. Reports usually cost around $30 and, in our
opinion, are well worth it for the piece of mind.
Preview
Opportunity
Most
government auctions provide a preview of their cars for sale at least two days before the actual auction. This
is the time when you can get really close to fully inspect the vehicle. If you know someone that you trust and
is good with cars, consider inviting that person to come along.
When
buying cars at government auctions, inspect the car carefully for
peace of mind. If you are not that familiar with, or if you are not really an expert in scrutinizing and
eye-testing second-hand cars, you can also try to bring in an expert or a qualified mechanic. By doing so, the
inspection would be accurate and you can be sure the price you would be paying, if you were the successful
bidder, is worth it. This would apply more to vehicles that have been seized rather than vehicles pre-owned by
an government organization. The buyer's objective at a government car auction is to save money. If you do not
know the true condition and value of a vehicle, you may end up paying more money for it than it is actually
worth.
Below
is a list of common things you should have a look at when considering buying any used car. There is no need to
be intimidated by the list below, most points are just reminders. Remember that most government pre-owned
vehicles are better maintained and serviced even compared to most other private cars. Work safety legislation
and organizational policies stipulates this behavior. The list below provides a practical step by step checklist/guide to ascertain the condition of any
vehicle with no history or service records.
Here
are 27 valuable & practical tips which will give you an overview of the condition of the vehicle, especially
older vehicles or seized/repossessed vehicles;
Bald or uneven tire wear (indicates bad alignment,
possibly from a wreck).
Damaged wheel rims on one side of the car only,
usually the side not facing the bidders.
Auto transmission fluid check: It should be a pinkish
or very light reddish color, and smell like motor oil. Note: if its dark red or a brownish or smells burnt this
a common indicator the transmission might be worn or damaged.
Engine coolant fluid check: The coolant should be a
bright green color, (orange for some). Discolored fluid with a brownish tint could indicate that fluid
replacement is past due or in worst case contains rust deposits from the radiator.
Engine oil fluid check: Engine oil should be a smooth
darker brown or black colour. If it is a milky looking brown, that is an indicator that the oil is mixed with
engine coolant, which in some cases be costly to repair.
Rebuilt title: This usually drops the value of the car
by 30%. Vehicle report should state this.
If all VIN stickers from the doors, hood, trunk,
dashboard do not match then the vehicle could have been wrecked or stolen.
No title present for you to take today: Avoid "title
in transit" cars. Check the vehicle history.
Problem title cars (junked, salvaged, flooded, fire,
etc.). Usually shows up in the vehicle report.
*
Rusty disk brakes and drums: Indicates the car has sat
abandoned for some time (can be normal) or been flooded.
*
Check for excessive dimples, scratches, dings, dents,
paint chips, especially on bumpers.
Malfunctioning air conditioning.
Airbag fraud: fake airbag covers. Hard to catch but
the vehicle history will give you an indication what to look for.
New carpeting for no apparent reason: Could have been
flooded or vehicle not well looked after.
Variations in thickness of the paint. (Requires a
digital coating thickness gauge).
Look for traces of paint over-spray along windshield,
engine compartment, inside door edges, along door seams.
Evidence of leaks or hand applied seal material to
plug up window leaks.
Feel around door edges for leftover evidence of
masking tape from body work, and doors that don't line up.
Loose or crooked windows, or power windows that don't
work. Motors can cost over $500 to replace.
For convertibles: Check convertible top operates
correctly.
*
Check for excessive exhaust coming out of the
muffler.
Look for evidence of odometer tampering. Mileage is
collected every year and shows up in the service/maintenance documentation.
Excessive mileage for the car's age: This gets
overlooked by lots of people. We would recommend that you deduct $0.10 - $0.15 per mile extra from price of
vehicle.
Check the steering wheel: when you move/jiggle it back
and forth there should not be any "clunking" noise.
Check the frame of the vehicle: Any frame damage
indicates the vehicle has been involved in a major accident. Look along the vehicle to ensure it is
straight.
Check the pedals: Pedals are not usually changed or
replaced so this may give you a hint as to the "real" condition of the vehicle.
Obvious presentation of vehicle, scratchy paintwork,
smoke smell, etc. Use your common sense! Follow your gut instincts. If something does not seem right, do not buy
that vehicle!
Consider using a call out auto
inspection service. For a fee, qualified mobile mechanics will go out to the car and check it out, test drive it
and let you know what they find. Well worth the cost if you'd like more peace of mind. The service should cost
approximately $100 or so. However you usually cannot do this on auction day so arrange it for pre-auction
inspection day. You will need to confirm with the auction house if any prior test driving is possible as some
only allow engine running for insurance and title purposes.
Importantly, government (non seized
vehicles) are usually always well maintained. Don't buy a vehicle without service documentation. Seized,
repossessed and similar cars for sale rarely offer service documentation - that's normal. Go through
the check list above and be prepared to bid lower for such vehicles
than for a vehicle with normal service documentation. There are so many vehicles available so be
selective!
Government bodies not only take
great pride in the upkeep and maintenance of their vehicles but its also part of their organizational
responsibility to comply with work safety legislation etc. You will find most of these vehicles come with
stamped log books, complete with service history. Also many of them are still under manufacturer's warranty.
Most cars are only 2-3 yrs old and majority have travelled between 40,000 -60,000 kms, or 25,000 - 40,000
miles.
We
look forward to seeing you again! Day 3 will teach you how to really get the best price!
Day 3
- "Secure best deal day". You will learn how and where to find out
the true market value of the car you are interested in. We will give you hands-on winning bid strategies which
are proven to save you a lot of money when bidding. You will save
heaps using our proven techniques.
Finally, don't miss your emails
with links to the two last remaining sessions.
Day 4
- Special coverage of On-line car auctions. There are many advantages with Government online auctions such as
they give you a much wider "catchment area" and also most online auctions offer you online search ability of
available vehicles. We will give you the necessary information such as logistical considerations for purchasing
interstate vehicles.
Day 5
- Final day! We will summarize the important lessons learnt. But importantly we will also look at important
questions to ask such as how you can obtain an extended warranty. We will also address the matter of favorable
financing. You will also learn how to avoid the worst mistakes you can make as an car auction
buyer.
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